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A winter in Oceania: part four, Vanuatu – Luganville/Port Vila/Mystery Island

Vanatu is a former colony of both the UK and France; a beautiful collection of small islands

Chris Humble by Chris Humble
09-01-2026 09:09
in Travel
Reading Time: 4 mins read
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Vanuatu

Photo by Chris Humble

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Vanuatu, which you’ve probably never heard of (I hadn’t) is a former colony of both the UK and France; a beautiful collection of small islands. I wandered on each of them, without much incident, except for the failure of a shore excursion I organised entitled ‘Boys on the Beer in Port Vila’, the capital. This was prompted by almost three weeks without draught ale. The ship only has bottles and cans, as had the bars in the first few ports we visited. Those of you who followed my ‘Passage to India’ story several years ago will recall a similar draught drought (see what I did there) on that journey, and the severe distress it caused me.

‘Boys on the Beer in Port Vila’

I organised for up to half a dozen guys who were sharing my pain to meet for lunch (liquid primarily) at the Numbawan bar/brewery in the centre of town. On shore early to do a recce I discovered to my dismay that it had closed down. Fortunately, I had a second choice on my list – The Warhorse Saloon on the outskirts of town. I buzzed over in a taxi and found it to be pleasant, with an encouraging selection of beer taps ranged along the bar. As it was only 10am I did not partake, but assured the hostess we’d be back at 1pm. We were, and I smacked my lips as I pointed at a tap and gasped “Pint please”. “Bottles only, no keg today” announced the bar server. We trudged back into town and drank bottled lager by the sea front. Bummer.

And coffee

My other visit in Port Vila was to a tiny coffee factory located in a former Catholic church. This was not only interesting, but also practical, as I needed to stock up for my onboard caffeine intake. I bought a pack each of the dark and medium roasts and am sipping it now as I recline on my balcony.

Mystery Island

Mystery Island is tiny, uninhabited, and has real castaway potential.

So, like I say, relatively quiet few days. I’ll let the pictures tell the story. Next stop Fiji.

ship
Photo by Chris Humble
Vanuatu
Photo by Chris Humble
Vanuatu
Photo by Chris Humble
Vanuatu
Photo by Chris Humble
Vanuatu
Photo by Chris Humble
Vanuatu
Photo by Chris Humble
Vanuatu
Photo by Chris Humble
Vanuatu
Photo by Chris Humble
coffee
Photo by Chris Humble
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Chris Humble

Chris Humble

Chris lives in Newcastle. He trained as an actor at a London drama school and spent 20 years working in the theatre. Since 2000 he has - more prosaically but more profitably - worked as a property developer, and is struggling to fully retire from this, thanks to his plans being regularly impacted by the actions of politicians (think Liz Truss and now Donald Trump). He travels a lot, undertakes pilgrimages, and likes to write about his adventures. He also enjoys reviewing theatre, books and football (Newcastle and England). A Companion in the Northumbria Community - a large, new monastic, worldwide dispersed group of Christians - his main hobby is backgammon, which he plays (poorly) at tournament level nationally and occasionally internationally.

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