I grew up in Gateshead, in fact I used to pick mushrooms where they’ve since installed a giant angel, and I still love my native North East. I travel home to see family and to go to some of the fabulous places there are there.
With the perspective that comes from being both local and a visitor, I think I can fairly point out that there are more wonderful and entertaining attractions there than anywhere comparable in the UK. But, for the most part, locals never seem to go there.
I want to tell you about three of them, and if enough people read this, I’ll tell you about three more. I’m not going to suggest days out you already know, such as Britain’s best outdoor museum at Beamish, the majestic beauty of Durham, the old-world charm of Tynemouth or postcard charm of South Shields. But there are some places that you’ve likely never been to or, if you have, you’ve not visited for years. I’d like to pick out just three of them and tell you why you should go.
Jarrow Hall: Anglo-Saxon farm, village, and Bede Museum
Tourists from all over the world go to Lindisfarne and Durham for their unique role in the history not just of England, but of the whole of Europe, and they’re well worth seeing. But the other part of the story, the site where The Venerable Bede lived and worked in the 7th and 8th centuries is in Jarrow. There you can begin by visiting the ruin of his monastery around St. Paul’s church, incorporating part of the ancient building, before visiting the fascinating Bede Museum, and meeting the animals in the Saxon farm that has faithful reconstructions of era appropriate buildings. Afterwards, I can recommend a wander down to the River Don that runs through Jarrow; and Jarrow Slake is now a haven for wildlife. Of all the often-forgotten historic sites of the North East, this one is by far the most important, and thanks to the museum and friendly animals at the farm, it’s a place that children and adults can enjoy.
Segedunum, Roman fort in Wallsend
I’ve got a soft spot for Wallsend because my family is from there, and there is something romantic about a fort at the very end of Hadrian’s Wall at the farthest edge of Roman Empire. The museum has a tower with a viewing platform from which you can see the whole site, and much further than that. It has great views across the Tyne, and contains a wealth of information not just about Roman history, but also about ship building and coal mining in Wallsend. The latter two are particularly apt considering proximity to one of the oldest deep shaft mines in the world: Wallsend B pit, the remains of which are on the other side of the road; and Swan Hunters shipyard. If you’re old enough you might even remember seeing HMS Ark Royal and an endless stream of other great vessels being launched there. Don’t miss the section of the Wall exposed on the other side of the road, next to a short section of reconstructed wall from which you can view it. And best of all, it’s just a short walk from the Metro station.
The keep and castle, Newcastle
I was shocked to discover that one of my nephews, Byker born and bred, has never been to the Keep. That’s sad because the Keep and the Black Gate (the former gatehouse of the castle – you can enter both on the same ticket) are better to visit than they have ever been. Modern displays of interesting artifacts can be seen in the Keep, alongside the history of the site, and of course from the top you’ve got one of the best views in Newcastle. And don’t underestimate how impressive the Keep is itself: it’s an imposing and historic fortress. The Black Gate (one time home of a bagpipe museum) has more exhibits telling you about the history of the castle and the area around it, from the date it was built through changing uses, through centuries as a home, a prison, and as commercial site. Don’t miss the sections of City Wall that you can find walking down from the Keep to the river, and look out for the outline of the original Roman fort outlined in stonework on the paving outside. Today, of course, if someone suggested running a train track through the grounds of a city castle, they would be treated as if they were mad, but George Stephenson’s original route for the line that still runs right past the keep adds to the charm – what, if anything, could be more Newcastle than that?
For some more details please see: Jarrow Hall, Segedunum, and Newcastle Keep and Castle.
*From: ‘The Road not taken;’ 1915; Robert Frost.
