Butterflies flying in undisturbed joy, swans sunbathing on muddy riverbanks and the river itself, roaring like a mighty, aquatic lion – there is a truly sweet spot for hikers and nature lovers alike along the River Till.
As I write this, I look out the window to see nothing but grey and gloom. The ground is soaking wet, the air is cold, and I dread the inevitable soaking I’ll get when I next leave the house. But I’m excited nonetheless as spring is upon us, with warmer and dryer days approaching before the inevitable summer brings its blessings to the countryside once more.
Along the banks of the Till
As I eagerly anticipate the return of the good weather and promise myself that I’ll take full advantage of it, I reminisce about past walks, the joy they have brought me and the liberation I have felt. One such walk is the footpath along the banks of the River Till, stretching from Etal to Donaldson’s Lodge in Northumberland.
Starting off at Etal, a small little village whose castle was taken for a month in August 1513 by James IV of Scotland when he invaded England, you start on a fairly large, rocky footpath which leads through beautiful woodland and past the ruins of a medieval chantry chapel and the old Etal Barely Mill, the sight of which was abandoned altogether in 1891.
But be prepared. It’s not all wide and rocky ground. Soon you’ll be walking through fields, through woodlands with high growing plants and nettles, ever slowly trying to encroach on the path, climbing small hills and walking along fields as the path diverts you slightly away from the river. Always follow the river however, as like the north star, it will see you right and guide you home. I always kept a vigilant eye on the map but the times I didn’t, I listened for the tremendous crash of the water and followed the sound.
But after the detours, due to either landslips or private property signs, the path becomes solid and covered in the shade of the trees under which you can cool down and enjoy a break from the hot summer’s sun. You can even enjoy the company of colourful dragonflies who dart from the river to the path over and over. You then get to a single-track road leading Tillmouth to Twizel Bridge on the other side of the A697 which passes through and then start on another path, re-joining the river for a little bit. You then diverge from the river, cross over it on a magnificent old viaduct after a while and follow another path, this time along the Tweed before leaving the river and going to Donaldson’s Lodge.
[justified_image_grid gallery=67866]
At one with nature
It’s hard for me to pick a favourite part of the walk but if I had to, I know just the part. Just before hitting the single-track lane to Tillmouth and Twizel Bridge, the solid, dirt/earth path returns to the edge of the river and a multitude of trees provide you shade and protection from the searing heat of scorching hot days. The flora beside you is thick and green, complimenting the trees to and the river which flows so calmly yet powerfully beside you. Truly at this point, as with the whole walk but more so now, you are liberated from the exhaustion of everyday life. You become one with nature, the elemental warrior that frees you from the shackles of society.
For those of you interested in hiking and long-distance walks, I cannot push this walk enough. It was one of the best I’ve been on in years. The natural beauty and fascinating history complement each other no end.
Stick to the path and stick to the map
My advice if you do go is always stick to the path and stick to the map. I got a little curious and overconfident and got lost three times as a result, albeit not too badly. Mistakes easily solved but even easier avoided. Always follow the direction of the river as that is the main part of the riverside walk and always go prepared with plenty of food, water and other appropriate gear needed for hiking.
My mission this spring and summer is to discover and hike new places in our wonderful countryside. But I will re-visit the Etal and River Till walk, that is a must. The question is, will you?
